Pieces of Portugal – Part 9 – Beyond The Palace Walls

Part of the Sintra and Pena Palace experience is to visit the palace grounds as well. So we started our trek away from the palace and through the woods. It was very mythical indeed. The grounds were green and lush and full of mystery.

We followed the path to the mystical lakes that King Ferdinand created for his children to play in. This is quite a playground that will definitely allow your imagination to run wild with whatever fantasies you can dream up.

From here, things got VERY tricky. We followed the travel tips stating you should walk down the mountain from the Palace, and to walk through the woods. Well …… we did, and it was NOT what we expected. We got lost through the woods, following the little creek, then we got stuck within in the walls surrounding the creek, with no other way out than to follow the creek, which gave us quite an adventure; an adventure we weren’t entirely prepared for. But we made it through unscathed. Once again after about an hour of walking through the woods, and what seemed like unchartered territory, we found our way back to civilization.

We found another palace, but didn’t enter the grounds. We had other places to go. Besides, they looked like they were setting up for a wedding or some formal ceremony.

We were headed towards Quinta da Regaleira and the Initiation Well. Quinta da Regaleira, celebrates Portugal’s unique historical connection to the mysterious Knights Templar. Quinta da Regaleira is a postcard-perfect mix of Gothic, Egyptian, Moorish and Renaissance architecture. But it’s what lies beneath the palace’s gardens that truly sets the estate’s design apart. A pair of wells, called Initiation Wells, spiral down deep within the earth, like inverted towers. The wells were never used to collect water. Instead, in fact, it was never built to serve as a water resource at all. It was actually built for secret ceremonial purposes, as a part of a mysterious initiation ritual within the Knights of Templar tradition. It has a spiral staircase of 27m to the bottom.

The Knights Templar, a Catholic military order with roots dating to early 12th Century CE. While the group is believed to have disbanded 700 years ago, certain groups, like Freemasons, revived the medieval group’s rituals and traditions centuries later. It is believed that Templar initiations at Quinta da Regaleira began with candidates entering one of Initiation Wells blindfolded. Holding a sword close to their heart, they would descend nine flights of stairs – a number that represents the nine founders of the Templar order. Once reaching the bottom of the well, the candidates would walk into a dark labyrinth where they would symbolically and literally find their way up towards the light. If they were able to make back through the well tower and into the sunlight, initiates would walk across stones in water to reach the chapel, where they would then be welcomed into the brotherhood.

Before reaching the Initiation Well, we strolled through the grounds of Quinta da Regaleira, which were breathtaking and gorgeous in their own right. The entrance was once home to the Royal stables.

Beautiful gardens and flowers decorated the grounds.

Many other structures, of many kinds, were scattered throughout the property as well, all enhancing the magical, mythical, Medieval vibes and characteristics of the grounds.

A view of the Moorish Castle. This was the closest we got to this castle. We had done enough hiking and climbing for one day. Plus we still had a lot of walking and climbing on this part of our adventure as well. 🙂

Quinta da Regaleira was inhabited by wealthy Patrons, Nobles and Elites, each with their own palatial homes and grounds. Some we could go into, some are still privately owned, and were closed to the public.

And again, there were many chapels all around, most of which were privately owned by the wealthy Patrons.

This is a good stopping point for now. Now, we were headed into the actual town or city of Sintra, where we stopped for something to eat, and of course, more explorations.

Have a great day and make everyday great. Live life to the fullest. It’s not the destination that matters, but the journey. Enjoy the ride and make the journey count. ‘Til next time.

Pieces of Portugal – Part 8 – Sintra and Pena Palace

It was another early morning train ride, this time our destination was Sintra. Our first stop was a trip to the romantic, mystical, magical Pena Palace. It was even more magical and mystical because of the deep fog layer that covered the mountain when we first arrived. Pena Palace or Palacio da Pena is a vibrant, hilltop Romanticist palace featuring diverse architectural styles and panoramic views. The train only took us so far. After getting off the train we hired a cab to take us up as far as he could. Then …. we had to hike up the mountain for about 1/4 mile, straight up, to get to the actual castle. It was well worth it, even if it was yet another tough climb. Portugal has many, many STEEP, STEEP hills all over. If you really want to see and explore Portugal, there is no getting around these steep hills.

Sintra, a UNESCO World Heritage site near Lisbon, is a breathtaking hilltop town renowned for its 19th-century Romanticist palaces, misty pine-covered forests, and dramatic, colorful, and eclectic architecture. Major attractions include the iconic Pena Palace, the mystical Quinta da Regaleira, and the medieval Moorish Castle, making it a premier, magical day trip from Lisbon.

Pena Palace is the legacy of the artist king, King Ferdinand II.

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The Palace of Pena is the result of two distinct periods, reflected in its complex and seemingly fantastical architecture. To the 16th-century monastery, the consort king Ferdinand II added, in the mid-19th century, an entirely new palace. Even today, the palace’s silhouette clearly reveals these two construction phases, harmoniously combined by 19th-century Romanticism. The two wings served different purposes, although some domestic functions — such as bedrooms, studies and dining rooms — recur in both. However, while private apartments predominate in the former monastery, or Old Palace, state rooms are found only in the New Palace. This architectural duality allows visitors to explore two distinct visitor circuits.

But the construction of Pena Palace actually started much, much earlier. The original construction began in the 12th century, following reports of apparitions of Our Lady, a chapel was erected on this site, and was a religious site for many centuries. King Ferdinand II purchased the castle in 1838, and expanded the castle, mixing and matching architecural styles. This sixteenth century monastery held an enormous degree of fascination for the king stemming both from his Germanic education and the romantic imaginary prevailing at the time that attracted him to the hills and the aesthetic value of the ruins. The original project was simply to restore the building as the summer residence for the royal family but his enthusiasm led him to opt for the construction of a palace and extending the pre-existing construction under the supervision of Baron Wilhelm Ludwig von Eschwege, a mineralogist and mine engineer who was then residing in Portugal. The building is circled by other architectural structures that appeal to the medieval imaginary, such as the parapet paths, the lookout towers, an access tunnel and even its own drawbridge. The palace incorporates architectural references displaying Manueline and Moorish influences that together produce a surprising scenario recollecting “a thousand and one nights.” The Palace of Pena thus emerged from the combination of the former Hieronymite monastery with a sophisticated 19th-century building, reflecting a taste for Romantic revivalism.

We got there early, which was a good thing. That gave us plenty of time to hike up the mountain, catch our breath, relieve ourselves and explore the grounds a bit before our scheduled tour time. In time, the fog cleared too.

Our time had come to see the inside of the Palace. Once again, we were in awe. It did not disappoint. We started off in the huge kitchen. Again, I would love a BIG kitchen like this. I would have plenty of room for everything I need. 🙂

The Royal China and it’s dragon design.

This room is known as the Hunter’s Room.

King Ferdinand’s private chambers.

The Royal Chapel

We left the Palace and started our trek through the gardens and beyond. Those are going to be in a separate post though, since I have many more pictures and stories to tell about that; too much to add on here, and definitely more than enough to warrant it’s own posting. 🙂

Haver a great day and make everyday great. Live life to the fullest. It’s not the destination that matters, but the journey. Enjoy the ride, even the challenging parts. They make it all worthwhile in the end. ‘Til next time.

Eating In Portugal – Part 4 – Portuguese Tapas

This was a VERY full and busy day. We stopped for a late lunch, in between activities, at a little place called Tapas & Friends for some Portuguese styled tapas. The food was delicious, and it was a fun little place in the heart of Baixa.

I relaxed a little with a tasty, traditional sangria.

One of the dishes we ordered was some grilled sausage, and this is how the grilled it; on a little open fire portable grill. We noticed this at other places we stopped too.

We also ordered the cod cakes, that we ended up eating quite a few times on our trip, and one of our favorites patatas bravas. Patatas bravas are Spanish, but Spain and Portugal share many things, along with their long borders. The whole Eastern part of Portugal is bordered by Spain, from the north all the way down to the south.

This was just enough to re-energize us for the rest of our day’s activities. It also felt very good to sit down and relax a bit too.

Have a great day and make everyday great. Live life to the fullest. It’s not the destination that matters, but the journey. Enjoy the ride. ‘Til next time.

Pieces of Portugal – Part 7 – Lisboa and Alfama

In between our Fado experiences, we also explored more of Lisboa and Alfama. We took full advantage of our Lisbon Cards and used them as much as we could, all over Lisboa.

One stop that is definitely worth it is “The Story of Lisbon” Museum. They did a great job explaining Lisbon’s and Portugal’s history. It takes you through Portugal’s age of discovery, through the earthquake and into the present. It is an interactive presentation, with audio devices that explain everything to you depending on your location in the museum.

The Age of Discovery

This is the tower you saw earlier. Pieces of Portugal – Part 3 – Belem and Beyond

Political Disodence

Church and State

The great earthquake and fires of 1755.

Everyone was affected, from the Nobles to the poor, and everyone pulled together to help each other.

They even had a simulator that made it seem like you were actually experiencing an earthquake. The earthquake was about a 9 on the Richter scale. I grew up in California, and have experienced many earthquakes. A 9 on the Richter scale is HUGE! The worst earthquakes I’ve experience have been 7’s, and those are plenty bad.

We took a lunch break and a much needed time to sit down and rest a bit before meeting up with our tour guide Tiago, for a tour of the Alfama region of Lisboa.

Alfama is the oldest, most traditional district of Lisboa, and Europe as a whole. Alfama’s story begins with Roman foundations. They established a settlement near hot springs. Visigoths followed, leaving their mark. These early inhabitants shaped the landscape. It dates back to the 8th Century, when Portugal was under Moorish rule. The name “Alfama” is derived from the Arabic word “al-hamma,” meaning “the baths.” Alfama has been a melting pot of cultures, influenced by Romans, Moors, and Christians throughout its history. Narrow alleys and steep staircases reflect Moorish design. Many houses still retain ancient features. The district housed a diverse population. Merchants, fishermen, and artisans lived here. After the Christian Reconquista, Alfama was a vital area. It lay outside the main city walls. The district became home to fishermen and laborers. It developed a distinct community identity. The castle of São Jorge stood guard above and offered protection to the area. Life here was vibrant and authentic. This medieval spirit still lingers today.

We even had our first taste of their local drink Ginjinha, or Ginja. Ginjinha is a sweet licqueuer made from sour cherries. It is all over the Southern regions of Portugal and Lisboa. The local ladies made some and had it available for us to taste. It is often served in little chocolate cups, like how we tried it. It’s VERY good, but a little bit goes a long way. It’s very potent, so it will really hit you if you drink too much. 🙂

And we had to stop and test some more pasteis de natas too. We were sampling our way through Portugal. We never met a pastel de nata we didn’t like. 🙂

Have a great day and make everyday great. Live life to the fullest. It’s not about the destination, but the journey. Enjoy the ride. ‘Til next time.

Pieces of Portugal – Part 6 – A Day of Fado

After leaving Castelo Sao Jorge, we headed back into Lisboa. We explored a couple of interesting museums. One was the Museum of Fado. Fado is a way of life to the Portuguese.

Fado is a soulful, melancholy Portuguese music genre originating in 1800s Lisbon, characterized by deep emotional expression (saudade), themes of love, loss, and fate, and accompaniment by classical and Portuguese guitars. Recognized as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, it is performed by soloists (fadistas) in intimate venues, with iconic singers including Amália Rodrigues and modern artists like Mariza. The songs are deeply dramatic, focusing on nostalgia, longing, and the struggles of life. It thrives in small, intimate “Fado houses” (fado houses), often in old neighborhoods like Alfama, Lisbon. Fado isn’t always sad—it’s honest.

This wall represents all the famous Fado singers and performers, or Fadistas.

Portuguese guitars. No, they are NOT mandolins.

A very famous picture of the Fado life in the museum.

This is a portrait of one of the famous Fadistas. You had to look at it from a distance to get the full picture.

Amália Rodrigues is one of the most famous Fadistas in Portugal. This is a tribute to her in Alfama, the home of Fado.

We also enjoyed a Fado show that night too. We tried to go to another one, but it just didn’t happen. It was beautiful. All the Fadistas were fantastic.

We got to enjoy a glass of port with the show too, which was also very good. She had a beautiful voice.

He had a deep, rich baritone voice.

If you have never been to a Fado show, I highly recommend it. In Spain, Flamenco is the music of the people. In Argentina, it is the Tango. In Portugal, it is Fado.

This day included a lot more too, but I will get back to that later. It was indeed a very full day. I can only do so much in one day. 🙂

Have a great day and make everyday great. Live life to the fullest. It’s not the destination that matters, but the journey. Enjoy the ride. ‘Til next time.

Pieces of Portugal – Part 5 – Castelo Sao Jorge

We had another very busy jam-packed day, this time starting at Castelo Sao Jorge, or St. George’s Castle. This small fortress was built by the Visigoths during the fifth century. It was enlarged by the Moors in the ninth century and modified during the reign of Alfonso I of Portugal (1109 – 1185). In later years, it was transformed into a Royal Palace. Finally, it was completely restored in 1938. The Castle reached its maximum splendor during the thirteenth century and lasted until the sixteenth century when it was occupied by both the Kings of Portugal and the Bishop.

The view of the city from the castle.

We toured around through the castle grounds and were serenated by beautiful peacocks the whole time.

I’ve seen many peacocks, but I’ve never seen white ones before. We saw so many peacocks. Of course they were posing for us so we just had to take a lot of pictures of them.

He was on proud peacock display here. He’s so gorgeous, but he knows it too. 🙂

This one reminded us of our our puma (Otis) and our panther (Nicodemus).

We went inside this cathedral that was adjacent to the castelo. It was being restored at the time, but it is still very impressive. Castles and cathedrals seem to be located next to each other quite often. The church and state were basically one.

This was our first adventure for the day. We had a lot more coming, but we had to go back to the main part of the city first. So I will leave it here for now. Sit back and relax, there is oh so much more to come. 🙂

Have a great day and make everyday great. Live life to the fullest. It’s not the destination that matters, but the journey. ‘Til next time.

Eating In Portugal – Part 3 – Baixia Food Tour

I think taking tours when in a new place is always a good idea. It is a great way to learn the new spot you are in, and they are almost always fun and informative. The same is true for food tours. You are introduced to new and different foods by taking food tours, plus you are walking all around taking in the sights as well. We took tours all over Portugal. And one of those tours was also a food tour back in the Baixia district.

We met with our guide, Attila, in the Baixia district about 6:30 PM. We had a private tour, since no one else showed up. More for us. 🙂 We started with a vinho verde wine from one of the local hot spots. I love vinho verde wines, and drink them all the time, particularly in the warmer weather.

Vinho Verde is a crisp, low-alcohol wine from Northwestern Portugal renowned for its high acidity, refreshing nature, and light, “spritzy” mouthfeel. Vinho verde means “green wine.” It refers to the lush, verdant region where it’s produced—not its color—and is best enjoyed young (within 3-6 months of harvest) as a perfect, affordable summer wine. Typically they include notes of lemon, white melon, gooseberry, grapefruit, and lime blossom. They are very fresh with and high acidity, and often feature a light sparkle (carbonation) added to brighten the palate. They are blended from indigenous Portuguese grapes like Loureiro, Arinto, Trajadura, and Alvarinho. We found out later that almost all of the Portuguese wines are blends. Vinho Verde comes from the Minho region in northern Portugal.

From our first stop for the vinho verde, we went to a little family owned restaurant for some piri piri chicken. The piri piri chicken I’ve made is more Peruvian styled. The one we tried this time is from Mozambique, which was once a Portuguese colony. the two types of piri piri chicken are very different.

And we enjoyed some more vinho verde there as well. The chicken was delicious, as was the wine.

Next stop, another small family owned and operated restaurant for some Portuguese meats. The owner is the older gentleman sitting in the corner, watching everything that is going on inside his restaurant.

Everything was delicious, but we were already very full. There was supposed to be yet another food stop, but since it was just us, we declined that stop. Our last stop was to a little club for an after dinner drink. We had drinks that were like liquid pasteis de nata or like a custard drink, topped with cinnamon or nutmeg. Again, they were very good and tasty.

It’s a good thing we had a nice walk back to our train. We were so full. We are not used to eating or drinking like this. But when in Rome, or in this case, Lisboa, do what the locals do right?! Every now and then is fine, but we can’t do this on a regular basis, that’s for sure. 🙂 Everything was good and it was a fun night and a fun tour to take.

Have a great day and make everyday great. Live life to the fullest. It’s not the destination that matters, but the journey. ‘Til next time.

Eating In Portugal – Part 2 – A Family Restaurant

I guess we had worked up so much of an appetite at this point that I forgot to even get the name of this little family owned and operated restaurant. It was cute and clean, with good food, so that’s all that really matters. It was somewhere in Ajuda. We tried our best to go to small family owned restaurants as much as we could. We always like to help the little guys when we can 🙂

This was “a light meal” so we just ordered one meal and split it between the two of us. Good thing we only ordered one meal. This is still a lot of food. 🙂

We wanted to eat lighter in the mid day because we had a food tour later, back in the Baxia district.

Have a great day and make everyday great. Live life to the fullest. It’s not the destination that matters, but the journey. Enjoy the ride. ‘Til next time.

Pieces of Portugal – Part 4 – Fit For A King

After touring around the Belem area, we made our way to near-by Ajuda, where we saw the crown jewels and one of the many royal palaces. The amounts of gold, silver, jewels and opulence are just astounding and hard to wrap my head around. But …. it is beautiful and truly a sight to behold.

All of it was very overwhelming, but I did take quite a few photos. I know. You’re all STUNNED. 🙂 🙂 🙂

The Crown Jewels

The churches, both private and public, were just as wealthy, with just as much opulence as the royals. Most of the palaces and wealthy homes also had their own private chapels as well. Many were very extravagant.

From the crown jewels exhibit, we moved on to one of the near-by palaces. Portugal was ruled by the monarchy for 771 years, and there were 35 monarchs who ruled during this time period, from 1139-1910. Needless to say, there are a lot of palaces all around Portugal.

A model of the Ajuda Palace.

And of course, the kitchen. I have to say, I would LOVE a kitchen like this. 🙂

With palaces and royalty, there are also carriages. Believe it or not, there is a carriage museum too. Of course we went. How often do you get to see a carriage museum?

This is a “carriage” of modern design. I don’t think any of the royal members were riding around in this, but wouldn’t it be a fun ride?

The royal ambulance service.

With carriages comes horses. The royal stables have been turned into the stables for the equestrian police units.

At this point, we had worked up quite an appetite. Our next mission was to find a place to eat. But taking time out for lunch was just a little reprieve. We had a lot more adventures in store. This is a good stopping point for now. Trust me, there is plenty more coming your way soon. So sit back and relax. This is just a short intermission. 🙂

Have a great day and make everyday great. Live life to the fullest. It’s not the destination that matters, but the journey. Enjoy the ride. ‘Til next time.

Bridges of Portugal

Once again, I am accepting the photo challenge from Frank Hubney at https://frankhubeny.blog/ and Dale Cooper at https://cosmicphotochallenge.photo.blog/ Their challenge this time is on bridges. We saw a ton of bridges all over Portugal, that I will share with you.

No, this is NOT the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, but it is a replica in Belem, Lisboa, Portugal.

One of the many border crossings between Spain and Portugal, in the southern region of the Algarve.

Up north, along the Douro River. This is Porto.

In the Douro Valley wine country, where all the Ports are made.

Have a great day and make everyday great. Live life to the fullest. It’s not the destination the matters, it’s the journey. ‘Til next time.